Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Smangus! Who wouldn't want to go?

If you get Smangus on your shoe can you get it off ????  Well  fear not Smangus isn't a what.  It's a where.  And where it  is waaaaaaayyyyyy up in the mountains of northern Taiwan.  In fact Smangus is actually pronounced  Smah-noose in the Atayal aboriginal language (and Si Ma Ku Si in Chinese) and it is a small village east of Hsinchu Taiwan.


I can tell you from personal experience it is quite an adventure to drive there.  While only 60 KMs as the crow flies from our home, it takes almost four hours to get there by car, with the last hour especially hair raising on a very steep, single lane switchback road  with no guard rails where a  wrong move could land you in the valley 500-1000 feet below.  Indeed because a small bus drove off just such a cliff last year killing 13, traffic is now strictly controlled with designated times to go up or go down.  If you're into the macabre, Google Smangus and bus and watch the bus back right off the edge of the road. 



According to WIKI TRAVEL...
Smangus is a remote Atayal (one of the indigenous peoples of Taiwan) village at 1,500 metres altitude in Jianshi Township, Hsinchu County.The village of 23 families is an experiment in communalism. The system of communal management draws on traditional Atayal culture and ideas from other sources including the Israeli kibbutz.  Before the giant trees in the area became an attraction, Smangus was completely cut off from the outside world. The fact that it is so far removed from "civilization" does nothing but promote an air of mystery about the area and the people who live there, which is why it was once known as "Black Village". It is now known as "God's Village". The area didn't have electricity until 1979.  Making the community even more remote is the fact that the only road to the outside world wasn't even completed until 1995.


The view from our hotel room

 The village has one hotel and a community eating room..  Natalie and Aileen had a great time playing with the local children when we arrived and the kids had just finished school....The kids were our fast friends for the duration of our stay!!

Smangus's two room school

   While there may be more beautiful spots, Smangus has its share of spectacular views and hikes through a mix of bamboo, temperate and tropical forest.    It has a very untouched feeling which is hard to find in crowded Asia.   We took a lengthy 10 KM roundtrip hike to visit the Ju Mu or Big Tree....a part of the forest where huge cypresses revered by the tribe grow.




  

 



Today in Smangus,  the big crop is peaches which can only grow at high altitudes like this in Taiwan's semi-tropical climate.




Half the hike was through bamboo groves like this!!
 

The Great Tree!!!

Aileen had the con  on the camera.most of the trip.    These are a few of her best shots!!!



Si Ma Ku Si




On the Atayal....
The Atayal  also known as the Tayal and the Tayan, are one tribe of Taiwanese aborigines. (There are 14) In the year 2000 the Atayal tribe numbered 91,883. This was approximately 23.1% of Taiwan's total indigenous population in Taiwan, making them the second-largest tribal group   Evidence now suggests that they are the descendants of those who crossed over the Taiwan Strait almost 7,000 years ago from regions that are now inside southern China, northern Laos or Vietnam. The Atayal are known as great warriors, as observed in the case of the Wushe Incident in which the Atayal fought the Japanese .  In the pre-Japanese era, to earn his facial tattoo, an Atayal  man had to bring back at least one human head.  These heads, or skulls, were highly honored, given food and drink, and expected to bring good harvests to the fields